![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() But it’s the rare Mexican restaurant in Houston that doesn’t also offer the salsa-it’s ubiquitous all over town. Ninfa Laurenzo, the late proprietor of the Houston chain Ninfa’s is credited with inventing green sauce. (Likewise, it was my first lesson in learning that Tex-Mex, like all great cuisines, has regional variations.) Mexican food had taken on a whole new meaning. I was upset I couldn’t order my usual meal, but after I had my first taste of green sauce-a creamy and tangy mix of avocados, cilantro, tomatillos, jalapenos and sour cream-I no longer missed tamales. And besides the usual bowl of red salsa on the table there was also a bowl of green. Also, being close to the Gulf, fish tacos were popular, as were tacos al carbon and a sizzling skillet of fajitas. The first time we went to a Mexican restaurant, I was in for a big shock: where were the tamales? Instead, Houston Mexican menus featured dishes I’d never heard of such as enchiladas verdes. This was the perfect Mexican meal for me and I was satisfied. No experimentation for me, I ate this every visit. I always ordered the same thing: a child’s tamale plate with rice and beans. When I was a small kid in Dallas, my parents and I often ate Mexican at Herrera’s, a charming hole in the wall where you had to walk through the kitchen to get to your coveted table, which was one of about 8-hence the long, long lines of hungry people streaming out the door. ![]()
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